Home » FASHION, Winter 2009

Men’s Style: Part 1 of 5!

by, Nadia A. Shah, Fashion Editor

Men have been hiding behind the female fashionistas in their lives for too long. In recent years, the fashion scope that focused solely on women has shifted to encompass both genders. Gentlemen, your days of throwing on old and ill fitting clothes have come to an end, because your wardrobe is noticed just as much as women’s. Don’t let all of the effort you put forth in the gym go to waste by making a few fashion mistakes.

Men, just like women, need to pay close attention to fits, cuts, patterns, washes, sizes and my favorite, detailing. Often times shopping seems like a tall order for men because it can become an overwhelming experience. The number of possibilities has multiplied exponentially and making the right wardrobe decision is crucial. To make the wardrobe make-over process a little easier, I will break it down into 5 categories that you should pay attention to.  This article will cover category #1.

Part 1 of 5:   Suits

Suits speak for themselves, and say more about your personality than you might be aware of. Most men and women believe that only expensive suits look nice, however that is a huge misconception, especially in these times. While a Hugo Boss suit does exude confidence and style, it does not have to be the only way to do so. When purchasing a suit, the most important factors to consider are: fit, style, and color. It is rare for a suit to fit like a glove right off of the rack so be open to the idea of having a tailor take in the suit a little to give it a shape more fitting to your body. When looking at suits, make sure that that the shoulder of the suit jacket sits on your actual shoulder, anything bigger than your actual shoulder will look like you are wearing your father’s suit and anything smaller will look like you took it from your younger brother.

The next place the suit should fit is the sleeve. Even though sleeves can be shortened, extending them is a little more difficult. When checking the length of the sleeve make sure that when your arm is hanging down the side of your body, the sleeve falls between your wrist bone and the knuckle at the base of your thumb (this rule is sometimes called ‘the rule of thumb’). If the sleeve is too long, do not wear it in public until the sleeves have been shortened to fit your arm. Next, you need to pay attention to the width of the lapel and how the jacket fits around your waist when you close the buttons. A lapel that is too wide or too thin can have an adverse effect on the portrayed image of your physique. Average widths are usually the safest bet, but if you are feeling a little adventurous, then try a thinner lapel with subtle but wider stitching as an added detail. After deciding if the size of the lapel is fitting for your body, try buttoning the jacket. When closed, the button and the loop should not be pulling in opposite direction, because if they are, the suit is too small for you. If you find that you can fasten the buttons but there is a lot of extra fabric, but the jacket fits nicely in the shoulders and arms, then fear not, a tailor can alter the jacket so it fits your torso better. Getting a suit altered by a tailor is normal and should be encouraged. A suit should enhance the V shaped physique men have and this is done through simple alterations.

Now that the jacket has been tried on, it is time we focus on the pants. In no circumstances should the trousers have pleats. Another common misconception is that the pleats will not be visible because they will be covered by the suit jacket. WRONG. Every time the jacket is unbuttoned, the pleats will be right there, front and center. Flat front pants not only look good, they can be worn as a separate, without the jacket. Flat front trousers also create a more slimming effect. The fit of the trouser both vertically and horizontally is just as important as any other aspect of the suit. Even though you will be wearing a belt with your pants, it is important the pants fit well without the belt. If the pants are too big in the waste, it becomes very obvious with all of the extra fabric bunching at the hip. The length of the pant should fall below the ankle bone but should not be long enough to have excess fabric sit on top of your shoe, at the base of your leg. If it is too long, have your tailor shorten the length so it looks as if the suit is made for you and not someone else. Also, when looking for trousers, try to select a suit that has trousers with a narrower leg. A narrow leg line does not imply a skinny leg or tight fitting pants, it simply means that leg of the pant is not wider that your hip.

Now that you have the basic tools to picking the right suit, it is time that you consider color and possibly even print. While a black suit is essential, it can only be worn for evening occasions, emphasis on only. If you find yourself under a tighter budget, which is pretty common these days, I would recommend investing in a charcoal gray or a navy blue suit. These suits are dark enough for evening events, but can still be worn during the day. Now a solid colored suit is about as boring as they come, so feel free to invest in a suit that has a subtle plaid print or a light stripe. Heavy and dark stripes end up looking more tacky than trendy, so avoid them if possible. The subtle prints are good because they imply that you are still professional with a sense of style.

I hope after reading this you feel that you are well equipped to go out and find a suit for yourself that will exude professionalism, confidence and style.

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